How to use this page
If you already know what you need, go straight to the service. If you have a symptom
and no diagnosis, that is the normal situation and the better starting point: pick the
symptom that matches and the page will tell you what we measure before quoting
anything.
A noise, a pull, a light, a smell, a puddle. Any of those is enough to book a
diagnosis. You do not need to arrive with a theory, and if you have one, we will test
it rather than assume it.
Repair and diagnosis
The work that brings most cars in. These are failures, not maintenance, and they get
diagnosed before a part is ordered.
Brake repair. Pads, rotors, calipers, hoses, fluid. Pad thickness in millimeters,
rotors mic'd against the minimum stamped on the hub, fluid tested for moisture rather
than flushed on a calendar.
Steering and suspension repair. Struts, shocks, control arms, ball joints, tie
rods, rack. The clunk gets located before it gets quoted, which usually means the car
goes on the lift and the suspension gets loaded by hand.
Engine diagnostics and repair. All-module scan, live data, freeze frame. A code
names a symptom, not a cause, and the difference between those two is most of what
you are paying for.
Drivetrain repair. CV axles, driveshafts, differentials, transfer cases, wheel
bearings. Four different components make broadly similar noises, and telling them
apart on a road test is cheaper than replacing them in order.
Cooling system repair. Overheating diagnosis, radiators, water pumps,
thermostats, hoses. Pressure tested cold, because a system that looks fine in the bay
will still fail on the climb up OR-58.
Electrical and battery repair. Battery and alternator tested under load, no-start
diagnosis, parasitic draw tests, corroded grounds, lighting faults. Damp gets into
connectors here and raises resistance, which is a wiring question rather than a sensor
question.
Maintenance and setup
Scheduled work, and the jobs that are worth doing before a problem starts.
Oil change and maintenance. Correct-spec oil, OEM-grade filter, and a multi-point
inspection where the findings are written down with measurements attached.
Transmission service. Fluid and filter, including CVT work to the exact factory
specification. Rebuilds get referred to a specialist rather than attempted here.
A/C and heating repair. Leak detection, compressors, blend doors, heater cores.
Heat on one side and weak defrost are the two complaints we hear most through an
Oregon winter.
Wheel alignment. Four-wheel alignment to manufacturer spec, with the suspension
checked first. An alignment on worn components is a reading, not a repair, and you get
the before-and-after printout either way.
Before you buy
Pre-purchase inspection. An independent check on a car you do not own yet: lift
inspection, collision evidence, OBD-II readiness monitors, road test, written report.
We have no stake in whether you buy it, which is the entire point.
What we do not do
Body work, collision repair, paint, glass, detailing, wraps, tires, and transmission
rebuilds. Heavy diesel is outside what our lifts and our diagnostic coverage handle
properly.
Saying so plainly saves you a trip. If you need one of those, we would rather point
you toward a shop that does it well than take a booking we cannot finish.
What every visit has in common
Whatever the job, the order is the same. You describe the symptom. We diagnose before
ordering parts. You get a written estimate with parts and labor separated and items
sorted by urgency. You authorize the work before anything starts. If the job changes
once it is open, you get a phone call and a revised number, not a surprise at the
counter.
More on that in how we work, and on what an honest estimate should
look like in honest mechanic.
Where we do it
The shop is in Springfield and serves the Eugene-Springfield metro and most of Lane
County. Eugene is about ten minutes away, Creswell sixteen, Cottage Grove twenty-six. See
service areas for drive times and the neighborhoods we see most.